Muztagh Ata

Muztagh Ata
Muztagh Ata, as viewed from the Karakoram Highway
Highest point
Elevation	Ranked 43rd
Prominence
Listing	Ultra
Coordinates
Naming
Translation	Father of ice mountains (Uyghur)
Geography
Muztagh Ata China
Location	Xinjiang, China
Parent range	Kongur Shan
Climbing
First ascent	1956 by E. A. Beletskiy et al.
Easiest route	glacier/snow climb

Muztagh Ata is #43 (top left area) on this location map from List of highest mountains

Muztagh Ata, or Muztagata (Uyghur: مۇز تاغ ئاتا, literally "ice-mountain-father"; Chinese: 慕士塔格峰; pinyin: Mùshìtǎgé Fēng), is the second highest (7509 metres) of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau (not the second highest of the mountains of the Tibetan Plateau). It is sometimes regarded as being part of the Kunlun Shan, although physically it is more closely connected to the Pamirs. It is also one of the relatively easier 7,000 m peaks in the world to climb, due to its gentle western slope and the comparatively drier weather of Xinjiang, though a thorough acclimatization period and a very strong physical condition are crucial for success.

Location

Mustagh Ata from Karakoram Highway, 2011

Muztagh Ata (Turkish: Muz Dag ( modern pronunciation Buz Dag [as in "men" versus "ben"- where Oguz Kaan lost his horse according to the legend) lies just south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of this somewhat isolated range that is separated from the main chain of the Kunlun by the large Yarkand River valley, and thus generally included in the "Eastern Pamirs" Not far to the north and east of this group are the lowlands of the Tarim Basin and the Taklamakan Desert. The Karakoram Highway passes very close to both peaks as well as Karakul Lake, from which the mountain is conveniently viewed. The closest city is to the mountain is Tashkurgan, the westernmost town in China and very close to the border with Pakistan.

History

The Swedish explorer and geographer Sven Hedin made the first recorded attempt to climb Muztagh Ata, in 1894. Additional attempts were made in 1900, 1904 and 1947, the last by the team of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman who came very close to the summit but were turned back due to cold and deep snow.

The first ascent of the peak was in 1956 by a large party of Chinese and Russian climbers, via the west ridge, which is now the standard route.

Since the first ascent, many ascents of Muztagh Ata have been made. In 1980, a party led by Ned Gillette made a ski ascent/descent of the standard route, the first ski ascent of a mountain over 7,500 m (24,600 ft). An ascent of the much harder south-east ridge was made in 2000, and a secondary route at the west side of the mountain was first climbed in the summer of 2005. Sweden's Anneli Wester camped on the summit in 2011 after climbing the mountain solo and in alpine style.

Sources

• Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks, ISBN 0-89886-238-8.
• Himalayan Index

External links

• Muztagh Ata on summitpost.org (Lots of information)
• Muztagh ata Information
• [1] muztagh ata informations
• Muztagh Ata in Kyrgyzstan